Lombok is Bali's neighbourhood

Lombok is an forgotten tales, legends, proud kings and ancient kingdoms. Lom­bok is, in many eyes, a sleeping beauty: mysterious and inescap­ably seductive. Hidden bays, secluded white beaches, picturesque landscapes and thousands of other secrets are waiting to be re­vealed by those who venture here.

Often misrepresented as a poor cousin to the high-profile tour­ism hub of Bali, which sits just next door, popular perceptions of Lombok are now beginning to change as visitors start to eschew the over developed, modernised version of paradise across the wa­ter and head into as-yet-unspoiled Lombok to discover the time­less beauty of village life and some stunning natural surroundings.

Trekking and hiking through local villages, visiting hidden forests and discovering waterfalls and swimming holes ojily requires a little direction while further afield-the challenging slopes of the towering volcano. Mount Rinjani, beckon those who enjoy more strenuous adventure with the possibility of encountering mystical ceremonies under moonlight and sleeping in tents on the roof of Asia. And indeed, witnessing the sun rising and illuminating the peaks of Mounts Agung, Bromo and Merapi in the distance is some­thing that experienced travellers talk of with awe.

Mount Rinjani dominates Lombok and is a still-active volcano that last erupted in 2010. However the plumes that are often seen rising from this tire breather do nothing to deter either the intense agriculture that takes place on the volcano's slopes or the steady stream of climbers that treks towards the summit in order to ex­perience Rinjani's incredible caldera lake, Segara Anak (the Child of the Sea).

Legend tells that once upon a time, a family of monkeys was playing with the moon. After a while, the monkeys started to squabble over their bauble, none of them wanting to relinquish their grip, and suddenly the moon broke apart, falling into three pieces. According to this legend, one piece became Mount Merapi in Java, one piece became Ball's sacred Mount Agung.and the last piece became Mount Rinjani in Lombok, home of the goddess Dewi Anjani. These legends and mystical beliefs are kept alive through Lombok's various annual festivals, which are held to honour the goddess and to appease the gods and the volcano. Co­lourful processions take place mainly on the island's west coast, where Balinese Hinduism fuses with the beliefs of Lombok's na­tive Sasak population through a combination of worship and ani-mistic symbols.

Rinjani is part of Indonesia's first volcanic national park. Established in 1997, the park is now looking to enhance its status through UNESCO as the government attempts to establish the country's first "geo-park". Successful or not, this attempt to gain recognition for Rinjani is an example of just how revered this mountain is, and of the strength of the lure and the lore of this magnificent geographical monument.

As a living volcano and the second-highest peak in the chain of volcanoes known as The Ring of Fire, Rinjani represents a challenging climb, though most should be able to make it up to the top. Volcano trekking has these days gone beyond the realms of individual challenge however, with ecological and ethical issues now coming more to the fore. Lombok, thankfully, is attempting to foster fair treatment of its guides and porters, as they in turn look to foster eco-tourism and learn lessons from their near neighbours regarding the dangers associated with putting everything up for sale.

A three-day trek will introduce climbers to an intense eco­system that nurtures, and at times endangers, the area's villages. Rinjani's lower slopes are cultivated intensely, with their rich soils proving perfect for rice, soybeans, coffee, tobacco, cinnamon and vanilla, a veritable food basket for the island. Meanwhile, on the forest slopes above, Lombok's weather is created, and the entire island's water cycle is the result of this dynamic tension between land, sea and sky.

Rinjani is considered by the local Sasak population, as well as the Balinese, to be a home of the gods, and it is easy to see why. Along with its great majesty comes a fearsome beauty, and in its wealthy abundance there also lies the threat of scarcity. Like the ancient gods, the volcano has the power to rain either fortune and fertility, or fire and fear down on its worshippers.

Don't miss the opportunity to experience Mount Rinjani first­hand, and the area's many hotels and trekking guides offer plenty of different types of trips that cater to all needs and time constraints. The adventure of a lifetime beckons and the conquest of a living, breathing volcano is surely something that will linger long in the memory. It is unique experiences like this that make Lombok the so-called "Sleeping Beauty" of Indonesian tourism. Pay a visit before she wakes up!

Garuda Magazine 12.12